Paint My Car

Paint My Car is among one of the most misunderstood parts of our hobby. It can be a challenging process to sand off the paint on your car, however it is among those work that points must get worse to get far better. Below are the fundamental actions and techniques for Painting your car.


Paint My Car


Preparation - There are a couple of ways prepare your car for paint. Each method depends upon just how extreme you're opting for your paint job or reconstruction. One of the most usual methods are found listed below.

Strip to bare steel - This genuinely is the most "proper" way to prep a car for a repaint, particularly a traditional or "older" car. This method will certainly permit you to uncover any type of prospective rust or rust that will certainly need to be attended to prior to you put on any kind of overcoats. Below are one of the most common approaches utilized to remove a lorry to bare steel before paint.

-Stripping or Cleaning Disc-- These can be found in a couple of dimensions as well as are good for getting rid of paint in large locations (hood, roof, fenders, etc) or in small locations (like body lines, engine bays, etc) without harming the metal.

-Media Blasting-- Media Blasting is a prominent method to promptly get rid of paint, primer, and rust by shooting the steel with pressurized carefully ground abrasive media. This technique requires an air compressor and severe care need to be taken to avoid contorting the body panels.

-Chemical Stripping-- This technique is applied by cleaning the liquid pole dancer on the metal. You must then enable the chemical to slowly soften as well as raise the paint. You could after that use a scrape or wire wheel to eliminate the softened paint. We suggest using a DA sander to "damage the surface" prior to using the pole dancer in order to help accelerate the process. Services are additionally available to have an automobile "dipped" in a acidic option that will eliminate all prior finishings and entirely bring the vehicle to a true "Virgin" state.

Mess up and Shoot - This method isn't one of the most ideal, but it prevails in fast repair work or repaints. We recommend preventing this method unless you understand the base coatings left below are solid as well as the steel is devoid of deterioration. You must abrade the large surfaces with 400-600 grit sandpaper on a block or with a DA sander prior to you use any type of new finishings to the car. The appearance left by fining sand the surface will certainly give the new finishings something to abide by when used.

-Air Sander-- Using an Air Sander or DA Sander will allow you to rapidly abrade the existing paint and also provide the surface area the structure needed for the guide or paint to "attack" into. This approach is the quickest for a "scuff as well as shoot" yet it also has the tendency to leave an uneven surface that will impact the finished paintjob (wavy surface). For the very best results we recommend utilizing a DA in conjunction with a block sander.

-Block Sanding-- This is the slower, extra labor extensive chateau of preparing a car for paint, but it allows you to leave a flat, consistent base for paint to be related to. There are a variety of block sanders, see to it you choose the ideal block for the form you're fining sand.


Fixing Body Damage - Prior to painting a car we recommend attempting to repair any kind of damage located on the body. This consists of rust, dents, repaint chips, and so on. The even more time you spend repairing damage on the car, the better your last paintjob will certainly look when done. Below are a few of the essential methods and devices had to repair body before a paintjob.

-Hammer and also Dollies-- Using a hammer and dolly is the most fundamental way to fix damages and the most common. By hammering on the damaged location while holding the dolly behind the broken area (or beside it called hammering "off-dolly") you could bring the steel back to its initial form. We 'd recommend getting a basic hammer and dolly set like these we offer: Beginners and also experienced vets alike could benefit from picking up a copy of The Secret to Steel Bumping to help discover how to correctly assault a dent with a hammer as well as dolly.

-Stud Welder-- A stud welder is another technique made use of for drawing damages in steel. This process is basic, however does take some technique to ideal. It includes utilizing a tool to identify weld little pins to the broken area. You then make use of a slide hammer to pull the pins as well as dented metal out. As soon as you have actually drawn the damage out you can reduce the pins off as well as grind the surface area smooth. We suggest utilizing this method on panels where a dolly can not support the panel. If you already have a MIG welder you can conserve cash as well as time by buying a MIG stud weld kit.

-Blow Up Dent Removers-- These resemble balloons on steroids. Area the inflatable dent remover behind a dented or damaged body panel and also gradually inflate it. The stress of the dent cleaner pushing in between the dented panel and the inside structure of the body will certainly force the reduced or dinged up areas up. This works well for superficial dents, but will not take out deep or creased damage. Take a look at our alternate damage removal tools here:.

Body Filler - When you've taken care of the dents or damage to the best of your capacity, you prepare to apply body filler over any tiny blemishes in the body. Body Filler is most commonly available in a "plastic" version, but lead or steel type fillers are offered for specialized repair work. Furthermore polishing putties can be made use of for filling little pinholes or small blemishes as they are thinner and also flow out much easier than normal body fillers. For even more extreme repair services where normal body filler can't be made use of, enhanced fiberglass body filler can be put on "build up" a harmed or "reduced" area. We suggest utilizing body filler sparingly and only to ravel tiny flaws in the body. It ought to not be made use of to fill in bodylines or trim openings as it could fail with time. Prep the location (bare metal or epoxy primer) with 60-80 grit sandpaper so the filler has an excellent texture to comply with.

Primer -After you have actually removed off the old paint, taken care of body damages, and abraded the surface area, you can currently go on to securing up the surface by using a guide to the car before using shade. The type of guide you make use of relies on how far you've selected getting rid of the old paint. Below are the common types of primer used when painting a car.

Epoxy Guide - Epoxy Primer is among the most functional primers offered as its suitable with most any other finish. It serves for use over bare metal or existing coatings. Epoxy primer is required when you have any bare steel exposed on your job. We recommend very first abrading the entire location you're keying with 80-120 grit sandpaper. Surface areas coated with epoxy guide can likewise have plastic body filler used over it if appropriately prepared. The only significant downside is that numerous Epoxy Primers are not California VOC compliant. Ensure you check compatibility with various other primers, as some guides (self etching primers for example) do not play well with epoxy primer.

Self Etching Primer - This guide is most generally a lacquer based primer that utilizes acid to etch bare, clean steel. It leaves an excellent base for urethane primers as well as top layers as well as is excellent for little spot repairs. When used over effectively prepared steel it has exceptionally good adhesion top qualities. Although it can't be utilized around or over enamel based coatings as it can trigger lifting. Do not apply body filler over top of self-etching guide as it could cause separation of the filler over time. We recommend fining sand the metal with 80-120 grit sandpaper prior to applying Self-Etching Primer.

Sprayable Polyester Primer - This primer is as close to sprayable body filler as you can obtain. It constructs exceptionally well, fills small flaws in your bodywork, and also can be block sanded level like your body fillers. This can be used over your epoxy or self-etching primer and body filler. Usage poly primer as your final action in the "bodywork" phase to obtain your panels laser-straight.

Urethane Primer Surfacer - Urethane Primer is the following finishing you need to use after epoxy or self-etching guide as well as filler. This is where you will truly desire the bodywork to become great as well as flat. Urethane Primer Surfacer can be made use of alone over existing finishings if you're doing a "scuff and shoot" kind paintjob. We suggest ending up the surface area with 180-220 grit sandpaper prior to using urethane guide.


Color as well as Leading Coats - At this moment you have actually dealt with all of the old damages, rust, as well as damage, and also you have actually primaried and block sanded the whole location you're Painting. Now you prepare to set the shade and (if you so wish) clearcoat. We'll cover the steps and products you'll should obtain a fresh, glossy coat of paint as well as clear on your car below. The surface you lay paint over has to be abraded symphonious from 320 to 600 before you apply paint. Be sure to make use of PRE or similar paint preparation as well as a tack fabric to remove any oil or deposit remaining from preparing the car for paint.

Single Phase Paint - This sort of paint is the easiest to use and also one of the most budget-friendly as it does not call for a clear coat. Single Phase Urethane paints still have UV resistance and could radiate just like a clear-coated vehicle if kept correctly. All lorries had a sort of single stage paint up until the very early 1980's when the basecoat-clearcoat system was established. You'll want to use 2-4 coats of paint depending on the preferred final look and the kind of paint you're splashing (some metal paints may call for even more).

Basecoat-Clearcoat Paint - As stated over, in the early 1980's several vehicle manufacturers switched over to a basecoat-clearcoat paint system. This paint has now end up being one of the most preferred and also typical to make use of when repainting a car. The basecoat alone does not have UV resistance and has no sheen when applied. Once you use the clearcoat the shade is sealed in and also the paint becomes "shiny". The great aspect of basecoat-clearcoat is that it's more forgiving when completing the surface for a best, glass-like appearance. Wet sanding and utilizing a multi-stage buffing system will certainly get rid of most imperfections in the paint (bugs, dirt, orange peel, etc). Basecoat-clearcoat also provides more security over a solitary stage paint after it's finished in case of a small scuff, scratch, etc as the clearcoat functions as an added obstacle over the color.

Waterborne Paint System - Waterborne paint is quickly coming to be the criterion in the autobody sector, specifically with a bulk of the big auto manufacturers using it on new vehicles. It's additionally gradually beginning to flow into the Do It Yourself paint market. Waterborne paint systems utilize water to suspend the paint or shade particles in your paint. The huge difference between solvent based paints and waterborne is that waterborne requires air flow to dry versus a chemical reaction that occurs in solvent based paints. Or else the application of waterborne paints go through a comparable procedure to typical solvent based basecoat-clearcoat systems because you lay a guide, a sealer, shade, after that a clearcoat and wet sand and aficionado the paint for the last coating. It's still fairly new in the Do It Yourself market, yet watch out for this in the years to coming as VOC regulations end up being tighter.


Finishing a Paintjob - If you have actually reached this factor you're on the home stretch and also this is the most satisfying. In these actions you're doing a comparable process to exactly what you did when you did your first bodywork and also block sanding of the primer. You're essentially trying to obtain the paint as well as or clearcoat as flat and also smooth as possible by obtaining any kind of flaws. Below are the standard actions.

Removing dust and also imperfections - Whether you're splashing in an expensive high-dollar paint cubicle or outside, you'll probably encounter a paint run or a rouge item of dirt that will make its means into your clearcoat and trigger a migraine. In this process you take a "nib documents" and scrub it over the imperfection to obtain it from the clear and also flatten the paint prior to you begin sanding the whole vehicle. This will leave the clearcoat looking boring, but can be remedied in the next step.

Shade Sanding - This step is pretty basic, you're using a fining sand block, a container of soapy water, and also progressively greater grit sandpaper to smooth out any type of minor blemishes in the paint consisting of orange-peel (texture in the clear layer), minor runs, leaks or droops, and so on. If you have actually sprayed a variety of layers of clear you can begin with even more aggressive sandpaper like 600-800 to promptly eliminate the orange peel and also significant flaws. Keep in mind to keep the surface damp and check your development often. Areas that have been effectively sanded as well as squashed out will certainly be boring and low places will certainly remain glossy. Maintain functioning those areas till they are totally flat as well as dull looking. From there you can work your method up making use of 800-1000-1200-1500-2000 until the panel is flat and also smooth without any significant flaws. We suggest utilizing a flat fining sand block on fairly level areas or where you need to get up close to bodylines. An adaptable sanding block can be made use of on rounded areas to keep also pressure externally.

Cutting as well as Rubbing Paint - This is the last and also most enjoyable. In this stage you are utilizing a multi-speed rotating buffer to progressively smooth out the finish as well as draw out the luster in the paint as well as or clearcoat. Just like shade sanding, you'll be working your means up from an aggressive reducing compound and pad till you reach a final foam pad and also rubbing compound. The number of actions you take here depends upon the last luster you're seeking. A fast Do It Yourself task can be as simple as a woollen pad and a reducing compound followed by a final buffing substance with a foam pad, while a specialist work will need multiple steps of substances as well as pads along the road. You could locate a full line of cutting as well as buffing materials HERE.

This post just scratch the surface of the globe of painting as well as autobody, yet hopefully it offers you an understanding of exactly what is associated with Painting a car prior to you start. Always keep in mind that the prep work is exactly what makes a paintjob truly great, so spend the added time block sanding and making certain everything is as straight as possible before you place shade on!